Handmade Candies
1
With longing to my beloved mother, Tema Blum HANDMADE CANDIES
Adi Endevelt
www.adi-candies.co.il
Editing: Shlomit Perry | “Word for Word”
Translated from Hebrew: Dana Smadja
Photographs: Shai Afgin
Book & Cover Design: Miri Nistor | Dodo Design Video Editing: Oren Ohaion
Styling: Sarah Zeidman
Produced in English: Notssa
© 2016, Hebrew edition
© 2017, English edition
handmade.fudgecandy@gmail.com
All rights of the book, its contents and photographs are reserved for Adi Endevelt.
No copying, duplicating, photographing, translating, recording, presenting, storing in a database or distributing of this book or part of it is permitted in any way, whether electronically, optically, mechanically, or otherwise. Any commercial or non-commercial use of this book (or any part of it) requires a permit from the owner of the rights.
Instructional videos of select recipes may also be found on the YouTube channel “Adi Endevelt”.
CONTENTS
How it all Began 5
About the Book 6
Getting to work 7
Equipment 7
Baking Pans – Types and Sizes 8
Key Measurement Conversions 8
Key Ingredients 9
Rules for Preparing Sugar Candies 10
HARD CANDY
Lollipops 12
Bubble Candies 14
Hard Candy in Bulk 16
Honey Candy 18
Butterscotch Candy 20
Pulled Candies 22
Opaque Candies 24
SOFT CANDIES & TAFFY
Milk Taffy 27
Chocolate Taffy 29
Peanut Taffy 31
Fruit Milk Taffy 33
Hazelnut Milk Taffy 35
Nostalgic Candy 37
MARSHMALLOWS
Marshmallow - Basic Recipe 40
Chocolate Flavored Marshmallow 42
Coffee Marshmallow 44
Marshmallow based on Fruit Nectar 46
Marshmallow clouds 48
CARAMEL CANDIES
Salted Caramel Lollipops 51
English Toffee 53
Crunchy Peanut Candy 55
Sesame Candy 57
Seed Candy 59
Sweet Popcorn 61
FUDGE
Fudge - Introduction 64
Basic Fudge 66
Cacao Fudge 68
FRUIT & JELLY CANDIES
Jelly Candies 71
Jelly Blocks in Layers 73
Marmalade 75
Natural Fruit Puree 77
Champagne and Cherry Marmalade 79
Hard Candies from Citrus Peels 81
Candied Apple 83
Caramelized Pears 85
COCONUT CANDIES
Vintage Coconut Candies 88
Coconut, Simply Coconut 90
coconut chocolate squares 92
Coconur chocolate with liquear 94
Fruit Coconut 96
MARZIPAN & NOUGAT CANDIES
Marzipan – Introduction 99
Traditional Marzipan 101
Calisson 103
Pistachio and Almonds Marzipan 105
Nougat – Basic Recipe 107
Ground Almond Nougat 109
HOW IT ALL BEGAN
During a family trip to Northern England in 2000, we came across a small boutique candy factory in one of the villages and we were watching the preparation of lemon-flavored candies.
The sweet aroma of sugar syrup, cooked in a large copper pot, tempted me to stay there drawn to a caramel flavored candy bar, which had a mixture of airy and crunchy textures. I asked the confectioner what this candy was made of, and he was only willing to tell me one word: sugar.
My curiosity led me to search for recipes for candies in bookstores around England, but it turned out that the recipes were omitted from cookbooks during the first half of the 20th century since the candies became industrialized and therefore much cheaper and more available, and so there was no longer a reason to prepare them at home.
The idea of candy making excited me, and so whenever I went abroad I was searching for recipes in old cookbooks – at thrift stores and in libraries.
Three years later, while I was browsing through a small booklet of recipes for candies, I found the recipe for that crunchy candy I tasted in England back then. With great enthusiasm I went to prepare it, but the result was not successful. So I threw it away and tried again and again… until…I finally succeeded. Soon thereafter, I began to attempt to prepare more candies. Very soon I realized that this process is actually an exact science and therefore I read professional articles about the chemistry of sugar in general, and about confectionery in particular. As soon as I was able to make a selection of candy with which I was satisfied, I knew that this is what I wanted to pursue from then on in a professional manner, at which point I established my own brand,
"Handmade Candies".
I traveled to England many times thereafter to be trained, observe and learn from confectioners of hand crafted candies, to acquire tips and sometimes even recipes. In addition to the making of candies and inventing new recipes, I researched the history of candy making, which I found very fascinating; information that I share in my own workshops. Each candy we prepare in the workshops has a special interesting story of its own.
For over a decade I have been creating recipes for candies, inventing new ones and changing existing ones. I prepare all of them using the traditional methods, as have been prepared in home kitchens 100 and more years ago.
This way, the candies created have a special and high quality texture and a unique surprising taste.
5 | How it all Began
ABOUT THE BOOK
Ten years after I first watched the preparation of hand crafted candies, I already had my own collection. I decided to pass it on to anyone who wishes to prepare candies by himself.
I wrote down the recipes, but they sat four more years in a drawer (more precisely on the computer)…until I decided to publish them in a book. In the meantime, I have added recipes, revised some which have already been written, and some have even disappeared as part of the wonders of technology… so I had to try those recipes again (even though I am familiar with the components, I play around with other quantities of raw materials in order to produce the desired result).
Throughout the years, it was my mother, Tema Blum, may she rest in peace, who believed in me, supported and encouraged me, and always longed to see the book unfold. To my great sorrow, she did not get to see it, but likely without her support and her faith, I would not have established "Handmade Candies" and this book would not have been published at all.
When you browse through the pages of this book and you can see that using the same raw materials, one can make various candies, in my eyes, this is beautiful. What guided my writing was to simplify the recipes as much as possible and to use minimum amounts of raw materials. For any complicated recipes you may find a reference to a YouTube demonstration film.
I invite you to learn how to make candy on your own and turn it into a fun experience. When the sweet smell spreads around the house, it immediately creates a pleasant atmosphere and a warm feeling. Make sure to follow the exact instructions, be sure to be precise in your measurements and get ready to enjoy.
6
GETTING TO WORK
Candy preparation is an exact science – you have to be strict with temperatures, correct amounts and the timing of mixing. You will also need to use certain materials and equipment which are not as frequently used in every kitchen.
Equipment
Pot – To prev
ent the sugar from burning, the pot must have a thick bottom. It is also desirable, but not necessary, that the pot will be shaped with rounded side panels. In the traditional candy industry it is common to use pots made of concave copper – the copper is a good conductor for heat and the concave shape contributes to the even distribution of heat in the pot. At home you may use any double-bottomed pot.
Measuring Cups and Spoons– In the candy-making process, the ratios between the quantity of liquid, sugar and glucose is very important. In order to be precise, you need measuring cups and spoons which are marked with the per-unit volumes. When the recipe indicates the measurement of one cup or one spoon it refers to a flat cup or a flat tea spoon, accordingly.
Wooden Spoon – In the process of candy preparation, you may reach very high temperatures .In order to prevent burns we use wooden spoons, since the wood does not conduct heat. On the other hand, the wood absorbs flavors especially from spicy stews, and therefore it is important to keep two wooden spoons in the kitchen solely for the use of candy making.
Pastry Brush – A brush specifically for the kitchen. For some of the recipes I use a pastry brush to remove sugar crystals that accumulate on the panels of the pot.
Sugar Thermometer – A thermometer that reaches at least 160°C (320°F). It may be either an analog or a digital thermometer. Note: while measuring, do not insert the thermometer (digital) all the way to the bottom – we are checking the temperature of the syrup, not the base of the pot. Sugar thermometers are sold in stores specializing in products for cooking and baking.
PizzaCutter / Cookie Cutters – Used for cutting candies, and may be found in specialty stores.
Candy Sticks – Plastic sticks are sold in specialty stores; wooden sticks may be found in arts & crafts stores.
7 | Getting to work
Baking Pans – Types and Sizes
Dedicated molds – When we want to make candies in special shapes we use special molds designed especially for making hard candy. These molds are resistant to high temperatures of up to about 155°C (311°F) and are found in various forms - both for lollipops and for bulk candies.
Silicone molds – These are also resistant to high heat and come in various cavity shapes. The cavities should be small since candies and sweets taste much better and delicious when presented in these sizes.
Square or Rectangular Baking Pans – These are pans designed primarily for making sweets that require stabilization, such as marshmallows or fudge, or that require flattening such as with toffees. We pour the syrup into the square or rectangular pan and let it solidify before cutting it into pieces. The size of the baking pan will determine the height of the candy, but will not harm its texture. If we pour the syrup into a larger baking pan rather than a medium size pan, the candy will be much flatter than we wished for; if we pour into a smaller baking pan – it will be much thicker. For example, if we are interested in marshmallow squares like those usually purchased in stores, we will use a medium-size pan. If we want to create shapes with a cookie cutter, a larger pan is recommended so the candy will be flatter.
Small Baking Pan – An English cake pan or other rectangular pan in the size of 15x20 cm2, for example.
Medium Baking Pan – Arectangular pan sized 20x25 cm2 or 28x18 cm2 or a square pan sized 25x25cm2, for example.
Large Baking Pan – An oven pan or any other type of pan of same size.
Key Measurement Conversions
Depending on where you are from and what you are used to, below are the conversions for the key measurements needed in preparing our vintage candies:
• 1 cup water = 240 ml
• 1 cup white sugar = 200 g = 7 oz = 0.44 lb
• 1 cup brown sugar = 160 gr = 5.65 oz = 0.35 lb
• 1 cup honey or glucose syrup = 320 gr = 11.3 oz = 0.7 lb
• 1 tbsp. honey or glucose syrup = 20 gr = 0.7 oz = 0.042 lb
• 1 tbsp. pectin powder = 8 gr = 0.28 oz = 0.017 lb
• 1 tbsp. gelatin = 9 grams = 0.3 oz = 0.02 lb
8
Key Ingredients
Sugar – I typically use plain white sugar, unless stated otherwise.
Glucose – Glucose is very important in the process of preparing candies because it prevents the crystallization of the sugar and contributes to the connecting of the molecules of the syrup materials, so that a smooth texture is created. An additional advantage: it contributes to the extension of the shelf life of the candies. Note: since the glucose is very sticky, it is recommended to wet the measuring spoon or cup in water before filling them with the glucose.
Food Coloring – There are natural and artificial colorings. I recommend using a form of gel food coloring (not liquid) since it is more concentrated.
Please note: adding too much food coloring may result in the undesired crystallization of the syrup. Therefore, begin with a very small amount, even just one drop and add more gradually if necessary.
Flavor Extract - There are natural and artificial flavor extracts. The more concentrated the extract, the smaller amount required. Too large of a quantity causes bitterness and sometimes an unwanted crystallization of the candy.
*Please Note: it is important to add the color and flavor immediately at the end of cooking, after turning off the burner, and to stir it quickly with a wooden spoon.
Concentrated Fruit Puree – This is an excellent alternative to food coloring and flavor extracts, as it combines flavor and color. It may be purchased in specialty cooking stores.
Chocolate – Raw chocolate may be found in the market in the form of different sized coins or in chunks, which have to be chopped before use.
The higher the percentage of cacao in the chocolate, the bitterer and better quality the chocolate.
Nuts – Any kind of nuts may be used, as desired, unless specified in a particular recipe.
Pistachio / Nut Puree and Pectin – These may be purchased in specialty stores
9 | Getting to work
Rules for Preparing Sugar Candies The Working Environment – We work with the window closed, so that wind or dust will not enter and spoil the syrup.
Closely Monitoring – So as not to miss the exact boiling temperature that the syrup must reach, it must be monitored at all times.
Advanced Preparation of All Ingredients and Equipment – from the moment the syrup is boiling, the work has to be performed quickly so that the syrup will not begin to harden before we pour it into the appropriate pans.
Accessible tools and equipment will prevent an unnecessary waste of time.
Do not prepare two kinds of candies simultaneously, for the reasons mentioned above.
Stages of Preparation
1. Place the required liquid with the sugar and glucose in a double-bottom pot and stir lightly with a wooden spoon.
2. Light a medium flame and immediately lower into the pot the grains of sugar that accumulate on the sides of said pot during the stirring process. The sugar has a tendency to crystalize and create a chain reaction – any foreign body, including sugar crystals on the sides, may lead to the crystallization of the syrup and we would not get the candy we had intended to prepare. We lower the sugar with a wet pastry brush until the sides of the pot are completely clean; it is important to do so before the mixture boils.
Scan the code to watch the demo video
Or view the video at this link: https://www.youtube.com/
watch?v=Ol1_WZH5_MA
Important: from this moment onward do not stir any more. Such an interference will cause the creation of sugar crystals and a crystalized rather than a smooth texture.
3. When the syrup reaches the desired temperature according to the recipe, turn off the heat.
4. Immediately add the color and flavor extracts or any other addition listed in the recipe and stir with a clean and dry wooden spoon.
5. Continue according to the specific recipe.
10
} 1 {
HARD
CANDY
The basis
for hard candies is
syrup containing sugar, glucose
and water, plus colors and
flavors. They can be made in
bulk or on a stick.
Hard candies of all kinds are
preserved in a moisture-proof
container at room temperature.
There are special molds
designed for hard candies, but
there are additional options, as
described in the recipes.
LOLLIPOPS
Ingredients (makes 35-40
For Greasing:
medium-sized lollipops):
Canola Oil Spray
1 cup of water
4 cups of sugar
Special Equipment:
¾ cup of glucose syrup
Lollipop molds
A pinch of salt
Plastic or wooden lollipop sticks
1 tsp of flavor extract such as
Cellophane bags and a ribbon
strawberry, raspberry, lemon,
cinnamon, coffee or mint
A few drops of food coloring
-or- (an addition of food and color
together)
1 tbsp of a fruit concentrate puree
(may be purchased at specialty
stores)
12 | Hard Candy
Preparation:
1. Grease the lollipop molds and place the sticks accordingly.
Alternatively, prepare a sheet of baking paper upon which you will place the sticks.
2. Pour water, sugar and glucose syrup in a double-bottom pot and gently stir with a wooden spoon.
3. Very Important: Prior to boiling, if any sugar accumulates on the side of the pot, lower all of the grains into the mixture using a wet pastry brush (see explanation on page 10). From this moment onward, do not continue to stir!
4. Bring the mixture to a boil over a medium heat and continue to cook (remember, do not stir!) until you reach a temperature of 154°C
(309.2°F) (measure using a sugar thermometer).
5. Remove the pan from the burner, immediately add the flavor extract and food coloring and quickly stir with a clean, dry wooden spoon until the taste and color is even throughout the syrup.
6. At this stage, proceed according to one of the options below.